Russell Street, Chowringhee and adjoining areas
‘White Town’ developed in Kolkata as the colonizers desired to seclude themselves from the Indians who were confined to the ‘Black Town’. Needless to say, the later was deliberately devoid of any urban infrastructural developments. Although among the black town inhabitants were some of the wealthiest natives living in mansions, they were considered socially unworthy in British standards. Gradually however the stark distinction faded to some extent with the natives getting social foothold. Hence post-independence we were left with white town areas covering Park Street, Russel Street, Chowringhee, Theatre Road and adjoining areas retaining the colonial glory to a great extent. One encounters several landmarks of the bygone era as one walks down these lanes which to till this is an area buzzing with commercial, residencial and socializing activities.
Russel Street is named after Sir Henry Russel, the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court from 1806 to 1813. Four successive Bishops of Calcutta dwelled here from 1825 to 1849 including Bishop Wilson, the founder of St. Paul’s Cathedral. The street has later been renamed after the famous industrialist Anandi Lal Podaar.
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| File picture |
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| Anandi Lal Poddar Sarani |
Galstaun /Queen’s Mansion located at the junction of Park Street and Russel Street is an imposing structure built by the Armenian merchant Mr. J. C. Galstaun. He made a magnanimous fortune in real estate and racing, but virtually lost it all at the turf. This largest mansion of Calcutta was designed by Martin & Co. and built from 1920 to 1923. It overlooks the Ganges. Today, the upper floors are used for residential purpose while the lower grounds houses offices including the State Bank of India. Galstaun mansion was renamed as Queen’s mansion to commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. In 1924, Bengal Club purchased several rooms but which were later sold off.
13, Russell Street – The southern wing of Queen’s mansion is built on a site which was previously a house built by Sir Henry Russel in 1798. This building was used by Calcutta Club from 1908 to 1914 when the Club shifted to its present premises at A. J. C. Bose Road.
Russel Exchange - The last of Kolkata’s auctioneers, Russell Exchange, has been in business since 1940 as a family pursuit. The plethora of articles put up for re-sale is endless. Furniture of teak wood, ceramics, paintings, vintage articles and several other items are set up on bid at the Sunday auction.
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Episcopal Palace – The original building was erected by Major Mark Wood in 1763 at 5, Russel Street. With its distinctive arched gateway, this building is one of the few remaining structures of colonial architecture of 18th century hence categorized as Grade II heritage building. After the death of Bishop Wilson, the house became a youth boarding house and subsequently bought by YMCA. Ironically, the arch was demolished though later on it was reconstructed by INTACH after the building received the heritage status. Today the building is used for residential and commercial purposes. This building also houses the Church’s Auxillary for Social Action (CASA), a noteworthy NGO functional post-independence.
The restored arch
The Royal Calcutta Turf Club (RCTC) was founded on 20th February 1847 as the Calcutta Turf Club. The club added "Royal" to its name in 1912, after King George V attended the races for the second time. Previously equestrian racing used to be held at Akra, Garden Reach from where it shifted to Maidan in 1809. It became the foremost horse-racing organization in India during the colonial rule which conducted horse racing and polo matches. Now it operates as a private club and conducts racing events at the Maidan.
Kanak Building (41, Chowringhee Road) is an architectural splendor built in the late Victorian style. Previously this building was one of the great departmental stores known as the Army & Navy store which was shut down after independence. The store had its own brand of Whiskey. The Standard Chartered Bank (flagship branch) was also a part of this premise.
Middleton Street was named after Dr. Thomas Fanshaw Middleton, the first Bishop of Kolkata (1814–1822). Middleton Street was later renamed as Prafulla Chandra Sen Street after the former Chief Minister of West Bengal.
The first footpath – With the construction of St. Paul’s Cathedral in 1840, the European population started frequenting this part of the city. This led to the up-gradation of the pedestrian facility with the construction of the first pavement in Calcutta. It was laid down in 1858 in the Chowringhee – Theatre road area by filling up the open drain that ran in this area.
The ‘Dhapa mail’- Civic facilities in Theatre Road further improved from mid-nineteenth century. The Europeans were alarmed by the system of carrying of disposed municipal wastes in open bullock carts. This led to the construction of railway in 1867 to cart away the waste. The ‘Dhapa mail’ ran from Theatre Road and its adjoining areas of the White Town through the Bagbazar Street of Black Town to Dhapa dumping ground at the city fringes.
Jeevan Deep – The first highrise office building in Chowringhee.
Darbhanga Palace – The Maharaja of Darbhanga was born on 25th September, 1858, to the royal family of the Khandaval, in Bihar’s Darbhanga, Lakshmeshwar was among the first few of his Maithili Brahmin family to have a western education. He was a philanthropist and a patron of the University of Calcutta. He donated generously for education as well as the Bihar famine. He was among the founding members of the Indian National Congress and in 1892. The family palace was later sold off to commercial offices. The imposing modern day construction ‘The 42’ is a part of this premise.
The site as seen today 
File picture 
Statue of the Maharaja of Darbhanga
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| Site overlooking The 42 |
The PANAM office was another significant landmark which was demolished. TATA Centre (43, Chowringhee Road) – designed by Ballardie Thompson & Associates and constructed by Martin Burn Ltd in 1963. Sir Comer Petheram, Chief Justice of Bengal resided here at one time.
Harrington Street previously called as Eliot Talao ki samna rasta or Graham Street. It was named after John Herbert Harrington, a judge of the Sadar Adalat. Here resided Sir R. N. Mookherjee. The building which is now converted to the shopping complex Metro Plaza was the palace of Paikpara Raj family.
Chowringhee Theatre built in 1813. It was the first English theatre frequented by Europeans and elite Indians, and inspired the development of English style theatre among Indians. It was shut down in 1935 due to financial crisis.
No. 44, Chowringhee Road – Apcar Estate
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45, Chowringhee Road – residence of H. E. A. Cotton, Bar-at-Law and author of
the book Calcutta Past and Present
No. 46, Chowringhee Road – Everest House
No. 53, 54, Chowringhee Road were residential properties. The Chinese Ambassador dwelt here.
AC Market was the site of the first office of the East Indian Railway in 1854 before it moved to Fairlie Place. The RCTC was also located here before moving to Russel Street. Constitution Club was also located here briefly.
King’s Edward’s Court was the Office of the Protector of Emigrants.
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| A part of the site |
Elysium Row/ Lord Sinha Road was named after Satyendra Prasanna Sinha, 1st Baron Sinha, he was a prominent British Indian lawyer and statesman. He was the first Governor of Bihar and Orissa, first Indian Advocate-General of Bengal, first Indian to become a member of the Viceroy's Executive Council and the first Indian to become a member of the British ministry. Prior to independence Lord Sinha Road could had only 11 houses and ample greenery. Very aptly it used to be called Elysium Row depicting a great sense of tranquility. Si Shikshayatan School and College and Sakhawat Memorial Girls High School are located here.
Bishop’s Palace – Proceeding along Chowringhee Road, this palace was built in 1850 after the consecration of St. Paul’s Cathedral. A massive Chinese Bell was set up in 1720.
Near about 17th century, the area now occupied by the Maidan and Esplanade, was a tiger-infested jungle. At the eastern end of it was an old road, which had once been built by the Sabarna Roy Choudhury family from Barisha to Halisahar. In that region were three small hamlets – Chowringhee, Birjee and Colimba.
The site is marked by Chowringhee Road in the east, Cathedral Road in the West and AJC Bose Road on the south was a water body. Unlike the other water bodies it is the only one that is surveyed in indigenous language, which is spoken in Bihar (undivided Bihar). The location and site appears to be commensurate with the great reputation of Virjee tribe. Six tanks are mentioned in the lottery Committee map of 1825-32. Of these Birjee Tollah later known as Birjee Talao was located in today’s Chowringee -Lower Circular Road Crossing.
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| Birjee talao |
Many views exist regarding the etymology of the area. Some opine that the word “ringhee” derives from Persian, meaning corner. Maps kept in the Indian Museum and the Victoria Memorial show that the original area was a square piece of land, more like a rectangular courtyard, with four corners. Hence, the name given is Chowringhee. Others feel that the name owes its origin to an erstwhile village called Cherangi. Still others are of the opinion that it was named after a mystic and yogi, Chourangi Giri, who is said to have founded the original Kali temple at Kalighat and the road was a passage for pilgrims from the north to visit the shrine, which today is located in south
The areas were covered during a walk condected to commemorate World Heritage Week 2023 organised by Calcutta Club Limited in association with INTACH.
References:
https://www.telegraphindia.com/india/roadhog-s-haven/cid/939242
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Calcutta_Turf_Club
https://www.telegraphindia.com/topic/darbhanga-palace-kolkata
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chowringhee_Theatre
https://www.tutorialathome.in/heritage-commercial-buildings/queens-mansion
https://www.getbengal.com/details/black-white-and-south-the-many-faces-of-calcutta
https://puronokolkata.com/tag/birjee-talao/
https://www.cguesthouse.com/heritage_kolkata.php?cx=13
Some picturestaken from Google images
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