China Town, Kolkata

• Since late 1600s commercial connections began developing between the ports of Calcutta and Canton through the Malay strait. The East India Company started importing several commodities from China such as tea, porcelain, silk, velvet, satin, ivory, fireworks, sugar candy, soy sauce etc. These were sold from auction houses in Calcutta, near the present day Armenian Church, and then sent off to Europe. The navigators of the Chinese ships landed to Calcutta but were never allowed to settle here as the British would not risk a loss in their trade monopoly. 

China Town Gate at Tangra

• In 1778, a sailor variously called as Tom Atchew/ Yang Daijong, Yang Dazhao, Yang Ah Chew proposed to hand over a ship full of tea for free. In return of this lucrative offer, Warren Hastings allowed him to set up a sugarcane factory and an ancillary rum distillation unit at Budge Budge. This marked the starting point of the oldest Indian China Town. The place is known as Atchepore today. Atchew appointed several Chinese workers in his factory and in order to develop a feeling of community, he set up a temple dedicated to Earth God. Atchew died suddenly in 1782. His grave is still visited by the Indian Chinese Community while the temple is maintained by local Muslim people.

China Town gate at Achipur

Advertisement of Sugarcane factory and Temple at Achipur

• After his death the factory workers who were mainly carpenters and artisans relocated to Calcutta in the present day Teretti Bazar area.
• The population of Chinese people according to 1961 census was 40,000 which have drastically reduced to 3500 people now. Large scale migration started during the India China Border dispute in 1962. The Indian Chinese people were thought to be spies and were forced to leave Calcutta without informing them about their destination. After what proved to be a treacherous journey, about 8000 captives landed at the World War II prison camps in Deuli, Rajasthan. They were made to make the Indian flag, sew clothes for the Indian army, speak, read and write Hindi in order to prove their loyalty to India. The captives were released periodically from 1965 to 1970. After their exile, amidst continuing tensions, these people never returned to Calcutta and went off to China, South East Asia, Australia, Europe and USA.

War Prison Camp, Deuli

• Monica Liu was a survivor of the Deuli camp. Apromising women enterpreunor, Monica set up Kim Ling restaurant which served the then Chief Minister Jyoti Basu. She bought Mandarin restaurant (set up in 1970) from her cousin in 1993.
• Three of the settlers deserve special mention for their contributions. Tom Fatt who initially worked at Atchew’s factory later became a successful contractor in cleaning ponds with the help of Chinese pumps. He also set up a sugarcane factory and distillery at Shalkia, Howrah. Dr. Lum Qua was a traditional doctor who translated the Bible into Chinese print. He donated his huge research work to the Asiatic Society, which is now probably destroyed as it does not feature in their archives. He was appointed as the superintendent of the Tea Committee in Assam for a hefty salary as ironically the British believed that any person of Chinese origin was knowledgeable in matters related to Tea cultivation, which unfortunately Fatt was not. He died prematurely due to jungle fever (probably malaria).  Lai Fong was a master painter whose main topic was ships. He was probably prosecuted in 1912 and his masterpieces were destroyed. 

Lai Fong

Painting by Lai Fong

• It is said that prior to 1962, a passerby through China Town felt to be in Shanghai or Canton.

Painting of China Town by Gaganendranath Tagore

• Before 1961, the children were taught Chinese language and traditions in the local schools before they went for conventional schooling. During the border dispute, several schools, press and temples were demolished as they were thought to train spies. The school associated with Nam Soon temple was one of the oldest and most respected one. Now it has been converted to a free school under the West Bengal Board for local Chinese and Muslim students. The only surviving school from this time is Ling Liang, which had the foresight to convert to English medium and was thus spared.

• Much of the confiscated lands were auctioned to Logistics Companies which operate here today. Those who returned back from the war camp restarted the handwritten periodicals which published local as well as news from China. Now digital print houses make newspapers and although the present generation is not versed in Cantonese language they purchase these periodicals as a mark of respect to their community. 
• The Indian Chinese people were granted special citizenship and their passports were reissued only if they knew Hindi. In 1996, the Indian Government issued voter cards to them. 
• The Chinese people voiced strong political opinions. The Chinese Republican Movement in early 1900s led to the dissolution of Monarchy and the establishment of the China under the leadership of Sunyat Sen and militant Chang Hai Shekh. The Indian Chinese Community regularly sent money and volunteers to China during this rebellion. The Calcutta headquarters of the political party Koumintang was demolished in 1962. Even before Koumintang, a secret society Gee Hing club (established 1870) existed in Calcutta which supported anti emperor ideologies. The existence of this secret society came to the knowledge of the police only after they entered into armed confrontation with the pro emperor secret society Ho Sing. 
• After Sunyat Sen became the first President of the Republic of China, his Government decided to extend their support by providing arms and ammunitions discretely during India’s fight for freedom. Although the British police were well aware of this, owing to their political rivalry with Tiber, they did not want to enter into confrontation with the Chinese government. Thus there was no arrest of Chinese people smuggling in the arms within the borders of Bengal. 
• The Indian Chinese community is grouped into different clan organization based primarily on their ancestral province and chief livelihood. Each clan has its own club, cemetery (in Tangra area) and Taoist temple. 
• One of the oldest clan in Calcutta was Toong On. All members have currently immigrated hence the temple renovated in 1924, now lies desolate. All Chinese temples have three deities: Kwan-ti (God of war, voyage and craftsmanship), Kwan-in (Goddess of problem solving) and a local village deity which varies from clan to clan. When members of Toong On community migrated, they took away their local deity, thus the temple now has only two deities. 
• Traditionally each clan participated in the Dragon or Lion dance competition on every Chinese New Year. As most of the younger generations have relocated and elderly people are often ailing, now only two clans perform this dance on New Year when members come from abroad and practice. The celebration lasts for 15 days and ends with the Lantern festival. Eating of sweet filled rice balls is a symbol of reunion.The Rice pudding festival is held on the full moon day of mid-autumn, to pray for a prosperous harvest. 
• Chinese Kali Temple is an example of harmonious coexistence of the Bengali and Chinese people. Two black stones smeared with vermillion existed at this site and were worshipped by local people. A Chinese boy was miraculously cured when his parents worshipped here. A temple was then built by the Chinese people and houses two dieties along with the stones. A Bhramin priest performs rituals every day. Noodles, fried rice, chop suey and vegetable dishes are offerred to the Goddess. 

Traditional Dragon Dance

• The Sea Ip clan performs this dance till date and their temple is very well maintained. The other clan which retains the lion dance is the Sei Vui club. The Lu and Bun shrine was established by this clan after the abolition of the Emperor’s rule hence no imperial deity exists here. 

Sea Ip Temple

• In Kolkata, Chinese people practise Taoism (Daoism), Buddhism, Conficianism and Christianity. Not much is known about Chinese Muslims. 
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• The immigration of people from Hakka province was a major turning point to Bengali culinary history. The people from Hakka were initially placed with the Cantonese people at old China Town. Due to prevailing tension and civil war, Hakkas were shifted to the Tangra area. By the time the Hakkas came to Calcutta, the Cantonese had been successful in several trades such as carpentry, shipbuilding and retailing. To out-compete them, the Hakkas set up eating joints (which served home cooked Chinese meal) and tanneries. 
• Chung Wah was the first proper Chinese restaurant in Calcutta. Prior to this Chinese men and women used to sell authentic Chinese delicacies on the roads leading to the market on Sundays. Eating houses like Tung Naam and Pou Hing are flourishing in old China Town while the New China Town houses swanky Chinese restaurants.  Nanking was the first fancy restaurant of Old China Town. Religious and social taboo prevented the Cantonese from serving food to outsiders and keeping pigs. Thus these two sectors were left for the Hakkas to thrive. However, the Cantonese sell sauces and Pu Chong is an early day factory dating back to 1958. The first sauce factory Nam Soon was set up in 1870s which was later sold off in 1962 as logistics warehouse. The only Cantonese restaurant was set up by the Sei Vui or Voiling club.  
• Eau Chew set up in 1920s is considered to be the oldest family owned restaurant in India. It was run by Chi Thien Huang and his wife Cheng Shih. The shop was named as Eau Chew meaning Europe in Mandarin, to lure British customers. The recipes are closely guarded family secret and no spices are added. Chimney soup is the sought after delcacy here.
• Bejing (1998) and Tung Fong (2001, Free School Street) are well known eateries. Interestingly, the dish Chilli chicken one of the most popular dishes served alongside Chinese food has nothing to do with China. It's origin however is shrouded in mystery. Chicken Manchurian too originated in the hands of a chef of the elite Cricket Club of India, Bombay.
• The major elements of Chinese food are fan (grains and starch based staples), Sucai (vegetarian dish), Huncai (non vegetarian dish). Peking duck is the face of Beijing cuisine prepared by authentic restaurants. Huo buo or fire timing is the major form of cooking.

• The Hakkas were also the first ones to introduce hand pulled rickshaws in Calcutta. 
• The people from Shanghai or Hubei district are mostly dry cleaners and dentists.
• The Chinese journal of India and The Overseas hinese Commerce of India are two newspapers published here.
• The New China Town of in East Calcutta is an commercial expansion of the Old China town located in Central Calcutta. Members of Indian and Chinese Communities have started the CHA (Cities Heritage Architechture) project in partnership with West Bengal Chapter of INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage). They aim to renovate Old and New China Town while preserving the Chinese ambience.

Reference:
1. Virtual walk by Immersive Trails
2. Beyond Barbed wires- documentary by Rafik Illias

3. A Taste of Time by Mohona Kanjilal

4. Pictures taken from internet