Fine Dining since the Colonial Era

 

1. John Spence’s Hotel

Established in 1830, it was the first European style luxury hotel in Asia with arrangements like room service, water closet and plush cafe. In the years 1860-70; the hotel was shifted to Wellesley Place or Red Cross Place (north gate of Raj Bhawan) due to acquisition of the previous land by the British Colonial Government. The building was severely damaged by earthquake in 1897. It now houses the Central Bank of India.

 

2. Great Eastern Hotel

The Great Eastern is a colonial era hotel established in 1840 as the Auckland Hotel by David Wilson, to host several notable persons visiting the city. After India's independence in 1947, the hotel continued its business but went into decline during the Naxalite era; later the state government took over the management. In 2005 it was sold to a private company and was reopened in November 2013 after an extensive renovation. It became the Great Eastern Hotel in 1915. In 1883 the premises of the hotel probably became the first hotel in India, to be illuminated by electricity. During its heyday, the hotel was known variously as the "Jewel of the East" and the "Savoy of the East" and was prosaically described by Kipling in his short story City of Dreadful Night. 

The state sold it to the private group The LaLiT Hotels, Palaces and Resorts in 2005. Until its closure for restoration in 2005, the hotel was the longest continuously operating hotel in Asia. The hotel remained closed for a number of years for extensive renovations. It reopened with a soft launch as The LaLiT Great Eastern Hotel on 19 November 2013. The building is registered as a heritage structure and the renovations maintained essential features of the building, such as its facade and the grand staircase. The hotel has been divided into three parts - Heritage I, Heritage II and New Block.

 

3. Grand Hotel

The Grand Hotel, now called the Oberoi Grand is an elegant building of British era. The site where the hotel now stands was first developed at No. 13 Chowringhee Road as the private residence of a Colonel Grand in the early nineteenth century. The house was converted into a boarding house by Mrs. Annie Monk who later expanded her business to include Numbers 14, 15 and 17. 16 Chowringhee was occupied by a theatre. When, in 1911, the theatre burned down, Stephen bought out Mrs. Monk and, over time, redeveloped the site into what now makes up the modern hotel. Built in an extravagant neoclassical style, the hotel soon became a popular spot amongst the English population of Calcutta. It was known, in particular, for its annual New Year party that, along with iced champagne and expensive gifts, involved the release of twelve piglets in the ballroom. Anyone who caught a piglet, could keep it.

In the 1930s, a typhoid epidemic in Calcutta resulted in the death of six people at the hotel. The drainage system at the hotel was suspected and it was closed in 1937. The property was leased by Mohan Singh Oberoi who reopened the hotel in 1939 and was able to buy the property outright in 1943. The hotel got a major lift during World War II when about 4000 soldiers were billeted there, and would party regularly. Events like the U.S. Marines' Ball at the hotel remind visitors of such times. Date of visit: 04.06.2017

4. Firpo's restaurant

Firpo’s Restaurant was established after the Great War I around 1917 by an Italian businessman Angelo Firpo at Chowringhee. He opened several restaurants, a tea room, a pastry shop that was and even a popular catering service that were frequented by the British elites including Lord Irwin, the Viceroy and Governor of India, several maharajas, and other dignitaries. Live music with cabaret acts and orchestra comprising of trumpets, saxophones, trombones etc were an integral part. Culinary finery comprised of table d’hote – always a five-course meal and not an a la carte menu.

The dance floor had the only sprung floor in India, giving dancers an extra lift as they performed the Quick-step, Waltz and Tango. Arati Das alias Miss Shefali referred to as the Queen of Cabaret was the first Bengali Cabaret dancer, who used to perform in the Lido Room of Firpo’s Hotel. Between 1917 and 1960, A. Firpo Ltd in Calcutta had about 500 employees.  It produced the finest bread for the entire Bengal region. A sharp downfall in popularity was noted during the 70s due to the changing political scenario 

5. Flurys

 The book called Flurys of Calcutta: The Cake that Walked written by journalist Bachi Karkaria and published by Flurys, a unit of the Apeejay Surrendra Group. A Swiss couple, Joseph and Freida Flury, started the tea room at 18 Park Street in 1927. it served traditional European confection including exotic cakes, creamy pastries, rich puddings and the world’s finest chocolates. In 1965 it was taken over by Jit Paul. People from different walks of life spanning several generations have fond memories attached here. At present it has 15 outlets across Kolkata and one each in Delhi, Mumbai and Hyderabad.

6. Trincas

Trincas started at its present location on Park Street as a tea-room and bakery in 1939. In July 1959 it changed ownership when Om Prakash Puri and Ellis Joshua acquired Trincas from a Swiss gentleman - Cinzio Trinca - and converted the tea-room to a restaurant. Its delectable cuisine and live entertainment has been spun into the fabric of Bengal culture. In the 1970s, Trincas attracted celebrities such as Amitabh Bachchan, Satyajit Ray, Dilip Kumar, Saira Banu, Tiger Pataudi, Sharmila Tagore, Kabir Bedi and the West Indian Cricket team. The famous Sunday Jam Sessions of the 60s and 70s, were played in the afternoon to attract a younger generation. Most of us are aware of Indian pop diva Usha Uthup’s association with Trincas. The Trincas Timeline Project, envisioned by Anand Puri (third-generation owner), is not just a collection of anecdotes but also a study of business planning and strategy, especially when faced with a difficult situation.

Trincas, Kwality and Mocambo received heritage status in September 2021

Pictures collected from internet

6. Magnolia opened as a soda fountain joint in 1942 and was taken over by the Royal family of Nepal in 1950 who converted it into a continental food restaurant. The in house desert and ice creams are famous here. The ownership has changed several times over the years.  

Continuing the legacy...............

• Woldorf (established 1953)
• Mocambo (established 1956)
• Sky room (established 1957)
• Peter Cat (established 1975)
• Ming Room (established 1982) - run by Trincas
• Moulin Rouge (established 1987)
• Kwality (established 1992)
• Blue Fox